Another month in Italy!

     Hello again.....well,  it has been more than a year since I posted some of my feelings and observations about Italy.  I promised myself and Tony that I would do better this time and post more blogs.  So, with that in mind,  I thought I would let you know what I am doing this year.

     I leave in a few days for Italy, this time directly to Florence where I hope the experience I have this year will be as great as the one I had last year.

     I will be staying with a young couple.....Benedetta Bronzini and Giovanni Piccolo in there apartment in the heart of Florence on the Piazza Santa Croce (more about this later).  It is called a Homestay program.  They will be helping me with my Italian as well as showing me around Florence and the Tuscan countryside.

      I will be leaving this lovely experience behind......

To enjoy the views of this....

Come fly with me!!!!

Rhythm of the City!

      The preferred mode of transportation in Florence is the "motorini".  I am told that they outnumber cars and bikes.  All you have to do is stand on any street corner to realize that it is true.  What I find fascinating is the give and take of the traffic.  This may sound crazy, but there is a certain rhythm to the whole system.  Because streets and sidewalks are narrow, believe it or not, there is a certain respect for giving the other the right of way.  From my window, I just watched as a bus slowed to allow a bicycle to navigate around a parked car.  No honking of horns, no frustrated "oofah"' just waited then moved on.  That may not seem like much, but in a city where everyone seems to be going somewhere in a hurry, it is refreshing to see.  The law regarding pedestrian sidewalks is very strict here.  If you step one foot into the street at a crosswalk, all mode of traffic stops.  (Mmmmm, I thought that was a law at home too!!)

Still haven't figured out where all these people go.  This is a common sight on every street in Florence. On the other side of the wall on the left is the Arno River and in the distance you can see the Ponte Vecchio...think gold jewelry!!!!

As you walk down a sidewalk, there is no stand off when coming face to face with someone, each steps aside and let's the other pass (except for tourists, they haven't figured it out yet).  Occasionally, when walking through a piazza, you hear a tiny bicycle ring and see someone (usually a well dressed older lady) navigating through the crowd to get to who knows where.  I'm not so sure I would be that courageous.  In fact, they don't even wear helmets.

I walk by this bike everyday on my way to school.  It is parked on the side of a little trattoria.  Makes me smile everytime I see it.

This is another one of those subtle things you see while walking.  At first, you think it is a traffic sign, but then a closer look indicates it is someone's idea of street art.  Really, really fun to see!  I'm not sure who does them or why the city allows them, but I'm glad they do.

Oops!

     I should have mentioned in my previous blog that Julian and Amanda's website is An Artist in Italy and Erin's is Eat, Pray, Move!  

     I should also mention that the phrase..."It is sweet to do nothing"  in Italian can also be (according to my Professore)..."e Dolce Far Niente!"

    Hopefully, I'll get better at this as I go along!

From Florence....

Yoga retreat and Chiusi

    The Siliana Alta ("high hill") is the name of the villa that Julian and Amanda have restored on the border of Tuscany and Umbria.  They worked very hard to provide a comfortable, beautiful place for their art students to enjoy the art classes they offer.  Enter Erin Lewis, a friend who is an extraordinary yoga instructor and they teamed up to provide yoga retreats like no other.  Maria and I enjoyed an incredible week of camaraderie, excellent vegetarian meals, day trips to Florence, Siena, Cortona, Citta  Della Pieve and our favorite Panicale.  I've already showed you some photos of Panicale and the gorgeous sunsets from the house looking into Tuscany, but I haven't shown you the best photo of all....every night before dessert, Erin would put on appropriate music and "planking" would ensue.  The test would be who could endure it the longest.

As the week progressed, they managed to work themselves up to almost 4 minutes.  I gave up after the first night!  

E' Dolce Fa Niente!

      Sharing how the Italians live their daily lives is many, many posts, but I have to share a few

 more of the "Dolce Fa Niente" (sweet to do nothing) images...

This gentlemen was sitting in the square in the small mountaintop village of Panicale, which is one of those places that you vow you will return.  He was enjoying his cigarillo and watching the evening passigiata (stroll)....no tv, no evening news to anguish over, just enjoying the moment!  

This lovely lady was sitting on a bench after her passigiata in front a small shop talking with friends/family and also watching the world go by.  

And in case you thought it was only older people enjoying the evening, this little one above 

was adorable...as well as this little guy.

Another reason this mountaintop town is unforgettable is the view.....

Maria AND the view...... Beautiful! 

Veni, Vidi, Vini

I put this title in two days ago fully intending to write a quick description of the Mercato Centrale, but never got around to it, so here you are finally.... 

As you climb the escalator to the second floor, the anticipation of what you smell, hear and partially see is exciting.  Once you get up there, this is what do see...

This photo doesn't do justice to the size of the space or the ancient building.  The basket hanging lights were at least 10' to 12' in size.  Then this....

And great graphics that were funny, but informative and then this one of many food signs....

The place was bustling and everyone seemed happy to be there, including the workers.  We were ready to relax with an Apero Spritz (my new favorite aperif.....Apero, prosecco and club soda, soooo refreshing,) people watch and decide what to have for dinner.

It didn't take us long to realize that here as well as other parts of the city, 99.9% of the people are really! really! nice.  They have easy smiles and always are happy to help you with the language, directions, or whatever.  The other thing that is obvious is that there is no point in getting upset if your service is slow or the bathrooms are not what you expected, because, after all, this is ITALY.  Live and let live.

Yes, but, back to the Mercato... Think grand, sophisticated, bright and airy food court.  So many choices, so little time....I finally decided on a focaccia topped with melted Gorgonzola, prosciutto, and walnuts.  Maria had a spinach penne topped with a light tomato sauce and a dollop of ricotta cheese.  This is the man who sold me the focaccia.... ( the photos of the food are on my iPhone and I don't know how to get them here).....

After taking this all in, we finally decided to head back to the apartment, but, not before having the obligatory Gelato.....      "In Italy food must be 'hello' as well as buono!"

Florence

What can I say about Florence that hasn't already been said......it is not as big as Rome and it is less noisy, touristy?, of course.  The Florentines are lovely people with easy smiles and eager to please.  The hotel we stayed at the first night La Case Della Morfeo, was small (9 rooms) clean and very close to the Duomo.  

Sunday, we went on a Taste Florence Tour with Toni Massaglia.  Toni is the daughter of my friend, Denette.  Toni has been living in Italy for 12 years and has developed a very successful tour business.  We were treated to a private tour of pastry shops (pasticcera) wine and cheese (encoteca), gelato and a wonderful demonstration of florentine paper making.  Of course, we made a stop at the San Lorenzo market and the Mercato Centrale.

This is Olivero, a sommelier and owner of a shop near the Mercato who guided us through some wonderful wines, olive oils and balsamic vinegars of Italy. Hopefully, I will remember all this great advice when it is time to buy these products at home.  Olivero was shy, but was very generous with his extensive knowledge of these products.

And this is Ricardo, paper maker extradinario!!

I have always been fascinated with this technique of printing and it was such a treat to observe it first hand.  (Altered Artists...attention...he used wallpaper paste mixed with water and acrylic paints rather than oils (cost being the deciding factor.  Nonetheless, it was great to watch him create the designs).

I start school today, but I still have to tell you about the apartment, etc. etc. etc.